Have you ever scanned your lawn and noticed large mossy patches? Although moss is not technically a weed, if you aren’t intentionally growing it, it might as well be.

Raking or using a powered scarifier are two methods for getting rid of moss. Another option is to use a non-chemical, bacteria-based moss remover.

What is Moss?

It’s crucial to understand that moss is different from other weeds before you begin because of this; conventional weed killers won’t work to eradicate it. This annoying, ancient plant doesn’t actually harm your grass because it lacks true roots. In fact, some homeowners intentionally add moss to their lawns.

Moss does, however, show that your lawn is having trouble. Too much shade or issues with the soil, such as compaction, a low pH, or poor drainage, are common causes of lawn moss. In these conditions, moss thrives while grasses struggle. Moss won’t kill your grass, but the conditions that allowed it to grow can.

How to Remove Moss from Your Lawn?

Simple and with shallow roots, moss is a plant. It can act as a kind of ground cover on your lawn, filling in any bare spots where your grass is sparse. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to remove due to its shallow roots. However, moss removal is only the first step in complete moss control.

Chemical Method

The living plant must be removed as a first step in the removal of moss from your lawn. Chemical moss-targeting herbicides are simple to find at your neighborhood garden center. In addition to killing the moss, many of these are iron-based products that can actually feed your lawn. Look for a moss-specific product, if possible. Moss may be resistant to some herbicides used for other weeds, and they can also harm your lawn. (Read More: How Often Should You Apply Sulfur to Lawn)

When moss is at the height of its growing season, it is best to apply an herbicide to control it. Moss grows at its fastest in the spring and early fall because it prefers damp, cool climates. Of course, it’s still not too late to use herbicide if you miss the ideal season. Herbicides ought to work year-round to eradicate moss.

Organic Method

There are two moss-killing methods you can make at home with ease if you don’t want to use herbicide in your yard or simply want something you can do at home. A potent homemade herbicide that effectively kills moss can be made by combining either mild dish soap or baking soda with warm water.

Use 2-4 ounces of soap per two gallons of water if using soap. To use the baking soda method, combine 2 gallons of water with a small box of baking soda designed for deodorizing refrigerators. 1000 square feet of moss-covered lawn should be covered by two gallons. The amount of solution should be increased while keeping the ratios the same for a larger area. Apply a thick layer of the solution to the moss using a garden sprayer. For best results, try to completely saturate the moss. Both of these solutions shouldn’t harm the nearby grass, so you shouldn’t worry too much about your turf.

The moss should die and turn orange or brown after about 24 hours. With a metal rake and once the moss has died, it ought to be simple to remove. A rake should be able to get rid of the entire plant since moss roots are very shallow. After gathering the moss, remove it from your lawn and dispose of it in sealed bags. The wind can still carry spores out into the open and reseed your lawn with more moss.

How to Keep Moss from Growing Back

It’s simple to remove moss, but that’s only the first step. You must alter the conditions in your lawn that encouraged the initial growth of the moss if you want to get rid of it and prevent it from returning. Moss growth is a sign of some soil issues, even though soil conditions don’t always encourage or discourage its growth.

Low Soil PH

Acidic soil, or soil with a low lawn pH, is where moss frequently grows. To find out your soil’s pH level, you can bring a sample to your neighborhood cooperative extension. Under the direction of the University of Georgia, lab testing is accessible by county in Georgia. Alternately, a lot of garden supply stores sell tests that can assist in figuring out the pH of your soil.

The most typical cure for an overly acidic soil is to add lime. The best time to add lime is in the fall so that it can break up during the winter rain and snow and penetrate the soil. The pH level of your soil may not change significantly for several months after lime has been added. However, you might try fast-acting lime, which is designed to start working right away, if you are having issues with your lawn at another time of the year.

Poor Soil Drainage

Your soil won’t be able to drain well if it holds on to too much moisture. Moor is attracted by drainage problems. The likelihood of drainage problems can vary depending on the type of soil you have; clay soil frequently pools. You can amend the soil to allow moisture to pass through more easily, so don’t worry.

Compacted Soil

Your soil may become compacted as a result of heavy foot traffic and thatch buildup, making it difficult for it to access a steady supply of nutrients, water, and air. You can fix this by aerating, which involves using a variety of machines to puncture your lawn with thousands of tiny holes so that it can breathe. This problem can also be resolved by dethatching, or removing the layer of decaying organic matter between the grass blades and the soil.

Is Your Lawn Draining Properly?

Your lawn may have moss as a sign of poor drainage. Moss prefers a damp setting. Additionally, if unhealthy turf growth is being hampered by poor drainage, moss may begin to grow in the thin or patchy areas of the turf. Fixing drainage problems is necessary to get rid of moss from your lawn.

There could be many reasons for poor drainage. First, the soil type might not be conducive to efficient water drainage. Clayey soils typically drain less effectively than sandier soils. If your soil is clayey, aerating the area and adding compost or humus can help the soil become better.

Another factor that contributes to poor drainage is heavy traffic. It’s likely that your soil is compacted if there is a lot of foot traffic on your lawn, such as from children playing or frequent garden parties. Make an attempt to drive a shovel into your turf to check for compacted soil. If the shovel easily sinks six to eight inches into the ground, the soil isn’t compacted; if it doesn’t, aeration is required. You can measure the depth of your turf roots while you are digging into it. Roots from a healthy patch of grass should extend four to six inches into the soil. Your grass is likely unhealthy if the roots are shallower than that, and compacted soil is probably to blame. We advise using a core aerator, which is available for rental at most home improvement or garden centers, to aerate the soil.

Your drainage systems may need to be improved if your lawn accumulates standing water after a rainstorm. First, locate the areas where water is accumulating and look for soil depressions. Filling in the depression with more dirt and leveling the ground can be quick fixes if a portion of your lawn floods because it is lower than the rest of the lawn. Consider installing a french drain to help direct water away from your lawn if you still have drainage problems.

Conclusion

Get the issues that allowed moss to grow fixed if you want to keep your lawn free of it. Your lawn’s need for lime to lessen soil acidity and promote healthy grass growth will be determined by the results of a soil test. Spend some time addressing areas with poor drainage, and think about thinning nearby trees or shrubs to allow more light to reach grass below. Regular lawn maintenance goes a long way in preserving the health and strength of your grass. If your soil is compacted, aeration helps reduce opportunities for moss to take hold.

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